Two Weeks in Scotland: My Complete Itinerary

To say that I “wanted” to go to Scotland would be a serious understatement. Scotland has been on the top of my travel bucket list for the past decade. This past October (2024) I finally had the opportunity to make it a reality and it exceeded all of my expectations. During our two weeks in Scotland, my husband and I drove across the country, experiencing the charm of Edinburgh, the rugged beauty of the Isle of Skye, the pastoral hills of whisky country, and lots more. If you’re planning a trip to this incredible country, here’s a look at my real-life itinerary for our two weeks in Scotland and everything I learned and recommend from it.

Top Tips

• Book lodging early, when possible. We booked most of our hotels about 6 months ahead, but by that point many of the smaller, bed and breakfasts and boutique hotels I would have liked to stay in were already booked.
• You can try and predict the weather but you likely won’t succeed. Plan for rain, wind, and sun. Often all at once.
• Renting a car offers a TON of flexibility, but is not for the fainthearted. While we had no problem navigating and the main roads and highway are easy, the single-lane roads in the countryside took a lot of getting used to. Between the narrow “roads,” the hairpin turns, and some of the biggest potholes I’ve experienced, you’re in for an adventure.
• I’m very happy that we visited in the shoulder season (October), instead of the peak summer tourism season (June – August.) Sure, the weather wasn’t perfect but it did not prevent us from enjoying any of the sites.
• Even in the shoulder season, there were still crowds at popular spots on the weekends. I’d suggest dedicating weekdays for the most popular sites and hikes.
• Take your time planning your trip! We ended up planning our itinerary during one of my busy periods, so I didn’t have as much time for research as I wanted. There are excellent resources from locals that I wish I had more time to explore. I have no regrets about our itinerary, but I imagine we would have enjoyed visiting a few destinations off the beaten path.
• Though I think it’s helpful to have a lot of pieces planned ahead of time, leave some room to get recommendations from locals during your stay. We would have never discovered a few of our favorite bars from the trip without a personal recommendation!

Day 0: Arriving in Edinburgh

After landing in Edinburgh in the evening, we checked into The Glasshouse Hotel (where we were welcomed with a much-needed glass of Prosecco.) Exhausted and unable to find a restaurant where the kitchen was still open, we ended up ordering UberEats and eating it in the cozy hotel bar. An anticlimactic start to the trip, but that’s the way it goes sometimes!

Day 1 – 2: Edinburgh

Above: Victoria Street | Dean Village

A real night of sleep (and breakfast) was all we needed to kick-off our exploration of Edinburgh. Over the two full days we spent here, we walked and ate our way across the city. Make sure you have your comfortable walking shoes and rain gear – we did a lot of walking.

The highlights that I recommend include:

• Wandering (and shopping) through the charming Carlton Street and Victoria Street, which (allegedly) inspired Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. And, there were some wonderful little shops we stopped in multiple times.
• Indulging in afternoon tea surrounded by books (my dream) at Colonnades at the Signet Library.
• Enjoying one of the best meals I’ve had at Noto. I honestly still dream about the bing bread to this day.
• Taking in sweeping views of the city from Calton Hill, which was a short walk from our hotel.
• Strolling the Water of Leith walkway. We started by the picturesque Dean Village and ended in the very charming Stockbridge neighborhood, which had lots of trendy restaurants and shops.
• Visiting Greyfriars Kirkard (though we didn’t have as much time to explore as I wanted.)

Above: Tea at Colonnades at the Signet Library | Tron Kirk Market | View of Edinburgh Castle

Some specific spots we enjoyed include:

• Tron Kirk Market for art and gifts from Scottish artists and designers
• Bramble Bar for delicious craft cocktails
• Bird & Blend Tea Co. to stock up on loose-leaf tea
• Topping & Company Booksellers (who doesn’t love an independent bookstore)
• One World Shop for fair trade goods and gifts

If we had more time, I would have stopped for a drink at the Devil’s Advocate, taken a guided tour around Greyfriar’s Kirkyard and The Real Mary King’s Close, and hiked Arthur’s Seat. (Though that’s just a small sampling of the many things I’d do with more time in Edinburgh.)

Day 3: Stirling Castle, Glasgow

Stirling Castle

Although sad to leave Edinburgh, we were excited to start our cross-country road trip!

We picked up our rental car from an Arnold Clark location, which we booked through Celtic Legends. I’d recommend them to anyone booking a car in Scotland – the communication was great and the overall experience painless. (Not something I can say for most rental car experiences in the U.S…)

Our first stop by car was the famous Stirling Castle. As one of the most-visited castles in Scotland, I’m glad we visisted on a Monday morning. If we had more time, I would have loved to do a guided tour to get the full experience. While in Stirling, we also had the best coffee of our whole trip at Darnley Coffee House.

From Stirling, we headed to Glasgow where we spent the night. Unfortunately, by the time we got there and parked the car at the hotel (an ordeal,) places were closing for the day. The Necropolis was the one site I was sad to miss out on (though we at least got to see part of it from the outskirts.)

Above: Impromptu whisky tasting | voco Grand Central Glasgow hotel| Glasgow Cathedral

We enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the city, stopping at Drygate Brewing Co. to sample some local beers before dinner. There was no shortage of restaurants to choose from, but we were craving Italian for some reason. We were very happy to discover Sugo Pasta. The restaurant was packed, even on an early Monday evening, which we saw as a good sign. The homemade pasta was delicious (we raved about it for days.)

The main highlight of Glasgow, though, was our experience at The Pot Still, a local whisky bar. The bartenders took the time to learn about each of our preferences, and then brought out 5-6 whisky bottles that they thought we might enjoy. We got to smell each one before making a final decision, and learned a TON about whisky in the process.

If we had more time, I would have loved to explore the Necropolis and do a walking tour dedicated to the incredible art murals that you can find across Glasgow.

Day 4: Drive to Fort William

Harbor in Oban

Leaving Glasgow for the Fort William area, we decided to take the scenic route, which added several hours of driving. We weren’t in a rush, and having the car gave us the flexibility to make multiple stops along the way. If we were short on time, however, I would have just taken the quickest route to Fort William

The highlights that I recommend include:

• Driving through Inveraray. Inveraray Castle, which I had really hoped to visit, was closed this day, but the town of Inveraray was lovely.
• Learning about the incredible prehistoric sites around Kilmartin Glen at the Kilmartin Museum (I’m an archaeology nerd.)
• Enjoying a meal overlooking the harbor in Oban.

Day 5 – 6: Fort William

The Glenfinnan Viaduct

For our stay in the Fort William area, we chose the Whispering Pine Lodge, which I became enamored with after looking at photos online. The view over Loch Lochy did NOT disappoint. It was our most scenic hotel room, by far. The lodge was charming, cozy, and had a lovely restaurant overlooking the Loch.

Above: Loch Lochy | Whispering Pine Lodge | Hike to Steall Falls

The highlights that I recommend include:

• A magical hike to Steall Waterfall. It felt like we were walking through a fairytale forest, and I was mesmerized when the trail opened up to the valley.
• The Glenfinnan Viaduct (which is a must for any Harry Potter fans.) It was just as picturesque as I had hoped, and I’d recommend it even if you’re not an HP fan.
• Shopping at the small businesses in Fort Augustus, where I found some of my favorite souvenirs from the whole trip. We were also able catch a glimpse of the southern end of Loch Ness (but alas, no Nessie.)
• Stopping for lunch at the The Camerons Tea Rooms & Farm Shop

Looking back, I probably could have sacrificed one day in this area to allow more time on the Isle of Skye.

Day 7 – 9: Isle of Skye

Hiking the Quiraing

I had heard so many wonderful things about the Isle of Skye, I was determined to make the most of the limited time we had there. So, we hit the road early and were able to stop at Eilean Donan Castle, which lived up to all the moody, majestic photos I’ve seen of it. We ended up paying to go inside the castle, but in retrospect we could have done without. I also loved stopping at Chocolates of Glenshiel, Lean-to Coffee, and The Selkie Collective (a delightful shop full of sustainable goods).

We truly made the most of the 1.5 days we had on the Isle of Skye. The weather was very rainy at times, but I couldn’t fathom hiding out inside. Although this area had the most tourists we encountered in Scotland, I loved that there was such an appreciation for the outdoors and the natural world. Skye was also the area that was trickiest to find accommodation for (and the priciest.) We booked our trip about 6 months ahead, but by that time there was only a limited assortment of options available. Luckily, we were able to get a room at the Skeabost House Hotel, which was a lovely bed and breakfast. No complaints there, just something to keep in mind!

• Having lunch at Café Cùil which was one of my favorite dining experiences. HIGHLY recommend!
• Stopping at the Isle of Skye Candle Company. Surprisingly, there was a lovely pizza restaurant inside, in addition to their full collection of candles for sale
• Hiking the Quiraing. This was by FAR my favorite hike, and all-around favorite stop on our Scotland trip. If you had a limited amount of time on Skye, this is the hike I’d recommend.
• Having a true coffee with a view at Bûrr Takeaway Coffee & Cake
• Visiting An leth-allt view point
• Putzing around Portree. You can take the iconic photo of the colorful buildings from the viewpoint over the harbour (on Bosville Terrace.) One of my favorite shops I visited in Scotland was Òr, which has two locations in Portree. They have the most wonderful art and gifts by local creators. We bought several prints that are now hanging in our bedroom.

Some of the other spots we enjoyed include:

• Old Man of Storr (Disclaimer: this hike was much longer and more difficult than we originally thought, and we didn’t have time to make it to the top unfortunately. It was also the most crowded hike of the trip, so I would definitely suggest going on a week day if possible.)
• Fairy Glen (not to be confused with the Fairy Pools)
• Duntulm Castle
• Talisker Distillery
• Birch Cafe in Portree

Above: Hike to Fairy Glen | Skeabost House Hotel | ruins at Duntulm Castle

If we had more time, I would have loved to visit Sligachan Waterfalls, Brothers Point, and Talisker Bay. The menu at the The Hungry Gull looked delicious, but the wait was much too long for a hungry Hannah. I would have also made a reservation at one of the acclaimed restaurants in Portree one night. But my biggest regret was not visiting Neist Point. With the limited time we had, it was just a smidge too long of a drive. But I have a feeling it’s as incredible as it looks in photos. Sigh.

After planning our trip, I learned that Skye is one of the most visited destinations in Scotland. I suggest avoiding peak tourism dates to prevent overcrowding and help protect Skye’s resources. I’d love to spend more time there, but also recognize the value in finding locations off the beaten path, which I’ll do next time!

Day 9: Drive to Speyside

We leisurely (and sadly) made our way off the Isle of Skye, headed for Speyside. We stopped in Inverness for a walk and a bite to eat, but we didn’t have enough time to fully enjoy or appreciate the town. We’ll definitely need to return. Along the rest of the route, my favorite stop was at a gorgeous pub called The Drouthy Cobbler in Elgin, where we grabbed a late dinner. This is another village I wish we had more time to explore!

I deeply regret not having enough time to visit Culloden. It feels like I did a disservice to Scottish history by not stopping at this historically significant (and devastating) site. If (when) we return to Scotland, I’ll make sure this is on my itinerary. I would have loved to visit Clava Cairns, as well!

Moral of the story: there is never enough time when you’re in Scotland!

Day 10: Speyside

For this leg of the trip, we spent 2 nights at the most delightful bed & breakfast called Craigellachie Lodge. The owners were so kind and welcoming, and the house was elegant, charming, and modern all at the same time. We also loved all of the meals we had here, and the tiny (but well-stocked) whisky bar.

The main reason we put Speyside on our itinerary was so my husband could embrace his love of Scotch whisky. Given the number of distilleries in the region, we felt woefully unprepared to put an itinerary together, so we booked a private tour with Speyside Whiskey Experience . Derek, the owner and guide, was SO knowledgeable and took us to multiple distilleries where we were able to do tours and tastings.

Above: River Spey | my new friend at Cardhu Distillery | Craigellachie Lodge

Not much of a whiskey drinker myself (traitorous, I know) my personal highlight was getting to meet one of the beautifully hairy coo’s that live at the Cardhu Distillery. The Walker’s Shortbread Factory Stop in Aberlour was also a delicious pit stop.

If we had more time in the area, we could have stopped at the Highlander Inn, which is supposed to have an awesome whiskey bar. But honestly, I wouldn’t do anything differently!

Day 11: Drive to Balmoral

Above: Hiking around Loch an Eilein

We had to make some adjustments to our trip after a previous accommodation booking fell through, so Balmoral wasn’t part of the original plan. If I could do it all over again, I would have added another night in Speyside instead of moving to a new hotel that was completely underwhelming. We did enjoy some lovely stops and scenery in the area, however.

The main highlights were:

• Hiking around Loch an Eilein. This was an easy 3 mile walk that rewarded us with beautiful, forested scenery and views of Loch an Eilein Castle. It was actually one of my favorite walks we did in Scotland. There was a little gift shop that had some lovely antique china, which I wish I could have brought home!
• Visiting Bertie’s Bar in Braemar. This was an unexpected highlight of the whole trip. Bertie’s Bar is an intimate, upscale whiskey bar tucked away inside The Fife Arms, a 5-star hotel. The bartenders curated a selection of whiskeys specific to our preferences and how adventurous we were feeling, allowing us to try some truly unique whiskeys.

Day 12: Back to Edinburgh, stop in Saint Andrews

As an avid golfer, Saint Andrews was a “must” for my husband. So, we made time to stop on our drive back to Edinburgh. The weather was extremely dreary, but the town was very picturesque with sweeping views of the water. We took a few obligatory photos of the golf course and then stopped by the pro shop so my husband could pick up some highly-coveted golf memorabilia.

Back in Edinburgh, we ended the trip with a truly incredible dinner at The Kitchin, a Michelin-starred restaruant that prioritizes local, season ingredients, which I had been looking forward to forever. Throughout the many courses of the surprise tasting menu, each dish got more and more delicious. And I loved that as a vegetarian, my meal was just as incredible as the one my husband enjoyed. This was certainly the priciest meal of the trip, but it went way beyond just being “dinner,” it was a truly memorable experience.

Above: Too busy enjoying my meal at The Kitchin so I only ended up with one dessert photo

If we had more time, I would have loved to spend the day in St. Andrews to explore the town and see St. Andrews Castle and St. Andrews Cathedral. Dunnotar Castle was also very high on my bucket list, but was too much of a detour.

Day 13 – Train to London (goodbye, Scotland!)

As someone who generally despises airplanes and airports, we decided to take the train from Edinburgh to London. It was probably the same total amount of time, but we didn’t have to go through the rigmarole of checking in, bag drop, security, etc. It was also incredibly scenic. Unfortunately, there was a very loud (and rude) family of American tourists two rows down from us that made me cringe most of the trip. But I got to sip tea, listen to my audiobook, and soak up every last moment in the country I fell completely in love with (so I suppose I can’t complain too much.)

Overall, Scotland lived up to all of my very lofty expectations. I can’t quite explain why I was drawn it. Sure, my obsession with Outlander might have been a small factor. But from everything I read, heard, and watched, it felt like Scotland was a country full of natural wonders with a rich history, culture, and celebration the outdoors. And indeed it was!

Is Scotland on your bucket list, as well?

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